It was simply a weekend-getaway at first but it turned out to be a flabbergasting experience in the end. Not to exaggerate, I really had endless moment of eureka and so droppings of jaw because I just could not inhibit my astonishment. Everything before me seemed like an enigma left me dumbfounded.
Unnecessary to say though, I already had my calendar marked the last weekend of July with a thought I was ready enough to see the place myself, but I had to see the dentist for tooth extraction. The waiting prolonged a bit for another week with pains, and with shilly-shallying because such outing was assumed que serra, serra. Despite all those ostensibly snags, the day had finally arrived. I had to go with a friend no mater what it costs.
Aware, we had to travel by motorbike to get to our destination. So I had my helmet put on for safety measure. It was two-and-a-half hour- drive for the first time in a while. We left the city at around three in the afternoon. The sweltering heat of the sun was not too much so I enjoyed the ride. However, we ended up soaked in the rain as we almost reached the village when the weather budged unpredictably. Not to mention the disturbance of strong winds against us as we went on with our driving.
Then, the droppings of jaw began.
The world changed in an instant.
It was also time to take a detour.
As we turned right to a small way bidding the main road goodbye, we trailed a cliff by the side of the flowing river to continue the trip. It was somewhat dangerous because some portions of the track where we were passing by had already slid. You could fall anytime when the way gives in due to landslides. As I said, it was also part of the droppings of jaw or let say it could be part of the que serra, serra consequences. Thank God, nothing bad happened subsequently.
Few minutes later, we stopped in front of a small hut near the riverbank. There was no more downpour of rain except for annoying drizzles. Not from a distance, I saw some people on a boat ride crossing the other side of the huge river. ''What are we doing here?'' I asked my friend. ''We have to cross by boat to get to my house.'' He replied. We then boarded on that small boat enough to carry few motorbikes and some people. It took us few minutes to dock to the other side. Then another fifteen minutes drive to reach home which I learned from his calculation. It was finally a great relief from that obvious long drive.
What is a fifteen-minute-more-drive, anyway? I comforted my self as we went along. ''We are in Vietnam now.'' My friend affirmed suddenly. ''You are kidding? I don’t have my passport with me!'' I divulged as my heart went lub-dub-lub-dub. I was so anxious. I was not told to bring it as well or took an initiative myself to take it with me. Remembering back home in Phnom Penh, I had no intention going to Vietnam. I lived there long enough. I was more interested of seeing it from a distance where huge river separate the countries. Also to my assumption back home was that my host lives near the boarder so it has nothing to do with securing a passport unless I decided to cross the country of Vietnam.
To cut the chase, I do not actually need a passport to get to his place. Yet we passed through Vietnam's land on our way there. We drove through the streets where Vietnamese locals reside. Undeniably, I heard them speaking their language. I knew it because I can speak the language a bit.
Then my fear has gone when we finally arrived at another tiny port for our final boarding to finish the joyride. The dock is situated few minutes walk away from the market literally located still in the land of Vietnam. It is one of the provinces in Vietnam estimating six hours drive away from Ho Chi Minh City.
We arrived at his village at exactly five thirty in the afternoon. My friend's house is located near the riverbank. From their house, you can see the same market where we took the boat. The house is also few meters away from the dock where we landed from the other side. With joyful hearts, my friend's family welcomed me. I can see it through their big warm smiles making me more comfortable and happy. Then his father introduced me to the neighborhood meeting some of his relatives and friends. We had a funny, interesting conversation. I was not worried then because his family was very accommodating. My first night was culminated with simple dinner yet very typical and delicious. At the end of the day, I also came to know my friend more. He is a good informant only he talks less.
In the morning, the following day after my coffee time, his father introduced me to my friend's grandfather and to some of their relatives. There I had another eureka. I noticed that the houses surrounding his grandparents' house are actually immediate members of the clan. They are his mother's siblings. In the city, it actually considered a compound but it looks more of a neighbourhood because it is wide opened and non-exclusive. Interestingly, almost every house is erected ten-feet above the ground. That is to protect them from flood or when water from the river overflows. The houses are exotic they may seem but modernized by technological equipments and expensive motorbikes. I also saw similar houses like these in the Philippines especially in Zamboanga peninsula. The evident of differences varied in a way that houses in Zamboanga (Taluksangay) built near the sea while houses here built near the river.
After the quick visitation, we went to the market to grab some groceries and to have breakfast. We had to take that boat again to get there. My friend and I had pho (Vietnamese noodles) for breakfast and porridge for his Dad. The memories of life in Vietnam flashed back as I was sitting with my friends that morning in the market. Still I was perplexed having no passport and yet was able to crossed that river enjoying the privilege of both locals.
Unbelievable!
To my mind, I felt they are the richest village in the world because they have to do the marketing, run some errands, and buy groceries to another country. It is just a small boat a way in five minutes or so, without showing a passport, there they are in another country.
Good for them!
And in a small boat ride a way, there they are immersing totally in different culture specifically speaking another language so fluently. Vice versa, it goes to both citizens (the Khmers and the Vietnamese) living along the opposite sides of this huge river.
It is amazing!
We did not stay longer in the market so we headed back home immediately. As we arrived home, my mind was preoccupied with questions about what would be my itinerary next. There is not much to do and see at the village as I supposed. I was hoping for things to happen which will make this trip interestingly unforgettable. I had. There were four options at hand such as playing with a three-week-old puppy or take a siesta or just stay home and know the family more or cross the river alone and buy some presents in the market for friends.
The first three options happened indeed. Unsatisfied, I persistently pleaded my friend to stroll me around but there was really nothing to see (well, if you jus sit and heat the bench the whole day). I mean partly true for everywhere is a cornfield and a farm. I figured out myself as we visited his aunt's house after we went to the market the same day. Besides, I did not want to sound demanding so I tried to be more understanding and flexible - the que serra, serra thing you know. To make the experience more positive and meaningful, I tried my hardest to spend time and talk to my friend to get to know him deeper with an intention to help him practice his English with me. Then, I took a siesta after lunch not knowing what luck would drive me as soon as I wake up.
See, I had much favour for destiny was on my side. The moment I woke up from a nap, things have changed so swiftly turning a get-away into a flabbergasting experience. That' was when my friend needed a phone card and he had to drive through the nearest village to buy one. Without hesitation, I asked my friend if I could go. He was kind enough to take me with him. As usual, it was only for a ride to overcome my silent insipidness.
On our way to the store, I initiated a conversation by asking where kids and young people go to school and what mode of transportation they use to go to study. Since he already told me his own story, I did not bother to ask his academic journey again. I shifted my curiosity to know about others as well. Besides, I have not seen any school yet near their village. Although he talks less, yet he was kind and patient enough answering my questions. In our conversation, I found out that there is one primary school located not far from we were heading. As he was trying to point at the location, it was still difficult to see the school from a distance because cornfields surrounded it.
He drove continually, and I enjoyed beholding the scenery of a cornfield. It was so beautiful. I did not realize we were already heading to that school. To my surprise, there we were. There were few young people playing football that afternoon in front of the school. Interestingly, the school has only three small buildings. I wonder if those buildings are sufficient to accommodate the students enough. Anyway, what was more attention grabbing is the fact that such a school is so placed in this kind of environment. I mean it was breath- taking. I was very startled allowing me so speechless. Wow! I wished I had my camera with me. It was so dumb of me not to bring it.
However, it was so fortunate of me too because he has a camera at home. He could lend me it so I can take photos the following day. Thank God! I had the biggest smile in the whole world for telling it so. We could not do it at that time for it was already late in the afternoon. He had to buy a phone card on the one hand. After doing such errand, we headed back home as I thought. Not at all, we took a detour instead.
In an instant, my friend turned out to be the generous angel I have ever seen. Maybe he noticed my sincerity and passion liking the village itself.
Then, another dropping of jaw happened.
This time, it was becoming lower and wider.
As we turned right to a small hem, I asked him, ''Where are we going?'' He did not answer my question. Maybe his intention was to surprise me. Mind you, I was so surprised. Again, in a wink of an eye, there was a total changed of an environment. The shift was so quick. We were in another world. As I was trying to look around ardently, I saw a coffee shop in that tiny, so laid-back village. The only word I could utter was wow. Then he drove continually crossing the threshold of every small hem inside that village while I, myself, was wondering and enthralling the exoticness of the many things before me. ''Next month, we cannot come here.'' He informed in a low voice. ''What do you mean?'' I asked back. He explained and I was listening carefully. Wow!
I learned from his narration that in the months of September through November the village would be flooding. No wonder, every family has at least a boat or two under the house. If he did not tell me, I would be wondering then why there is a boat under the house in the middle of the farm so away from the riverbank. Then I interrupted with a joke, ''What about that volleyball court? Will they still play the sports by boat?'' My friend laughed and then said no. Then I laughed with him, too. I could not imagine how disappointing it would be having stuck for three long months in the flood. It would be a devastating time for children who love bike riding and to those who love motorbike riding.
But life must go on!
My friend has promised me to go back to the village and take photos the following day. That made me happy leaving the village that day even without photo shoots.
Then we went to see another close relative and had a short conversation. Before we headed back to his house, we stopped at a small bridge near his house and did site seeing. Looking at the river from where we were standing was so special. The floating houses on the river captured my attention. It stirred up another question about how contented and happy those people are living such life-style. This time, I did not ask a question. I was just taking pleasure of the spot before me. Then his brother-in-law appeared calling us to come back home for dinner. As always, we had excellent meals of local cuisine to close the day. Yummy!
The next morning as anticipated was very significant for me. I already had plan in mind that I will be writing a story after this excursion. Yet I needed photos to brighten up my article. Honestly, I was so excited. It was having the same feeling of a person dying to go and could not stand the agony of waiting more.
Right after our breakfast, we were set to go.
I had the camera ready in my hand as my friend was driving the motorbike. Maybe he could hear the clicks of the camera every now and then. I took every significant shot of sceneries that I need for the story and for a memoir to bring back home.
To continue with the agenda, we went to the primary school. There I took all the angles I could of the panorama that had me amazed yesterday. Of course, I also took some poise of ours to prove that I had been here.
As I kept on clicking the camera, a familiar person riding on his motorbike was coming towards us. Only to find out, he was my former student at Conversations with Foreigners (CWF) back in the capital city of Cambodia. What a small world! He has been coming to this village to teach English with his co-volunteer. He works for an NGO based in the city. Maybe I would be considering volunteering here as well in the future. Who knows? Then I suggested if I could take a photo with him. After that, he invited us to visit the center just few steps away form we were taking photos. There I met his colleague and their students whom two of them are first cousins of my friend. After talking to them with much fun, we also took photos with them. Then we said goodbye because we had to go to another interesting villages to take photos too. Unfortunately, the camera went low-batt so we had to go back home and changed batteries.
Without any delays, we proceeded to the village that also had me astonished the day before. The house with the boats under it, remember? This time I was so careful taking photos because I was not sure if it was OK to do so. The taking was seemingly stolen but challenging at the same time.
This time then we went beyond. The further and farther we drove the dropping-of-jaw-experience as well. Everything was remarkable. The path we were tracing was long, muddy and narrow connecting the other villages. There are four villages connecting the tiny but long way. There are like 6000 people residing in the villages. It was interesting to note that seventy percent of the people living in those villages are Vietnamese and thirty percent only are Cambodians. Vietnamese outnumbered Cambodians when they actually situated in Cambodia's land. How come? That is for me to find out soon.
There is so much to see and learn from those villages. I wonder how many foreigners have visited the villages so far aside from me. I would say it was a very interesting place for excursions. As we went further in, I saw a concrete Chinese temple in the midst of this seemingly Buddhist area. It was said to be a Vietnamese temple rather than a typical Buddhist temple. I hope I can tell the difference. From where we had our last stop, we stood almost at the foot of a riverbank. It was another tiny port as a passageway bringing people transversely to the cradle of civilization - the busy market of Long Binh. And from this tiny port, we can clearly see a mega, white building known as Casino stood enticingly along the same gigantic river across the village. After taking photos, we headed back home for lunch.
In the evening, as promised, my friend and I went to the market again to have some drinks (fruit juice). I had the privilege getting to know his aspiration in life. That's how we concluded the seemingly hard-long-day.
The following day was my last day, and I had to take some photos of the floating houses I was telling a while ago. I had to wait for the afternoon because that was the original plan's time. I had to buy some presents in the market to bring home the next early morning. When we were about to go, I was already taking some photos from the dock, then heavy rain was coming. We had to rushed back home so not to get wet because I had the camera with me. We had to wait until the rain subsides. It did. Then we pushed through the plan. I had to change some Vietnamese currency (called dong) to buy things. I realized later that those villages although living in Cambodia, they do not use riel (Cambodia currency) but dong. My friend has too. I was lucky to bring dollars with me instead of riel. The shopping was over and so the photo shooting. We were only given an hour to do the errand so we had to go home soon. As usual, we had to take that small boat again to cross the river.
I was so happy.
Then I had my last meal with the generous family, my host. After a table conversation, I had to go up stairs and packed my stuff because we had to leave very early in the morning. Then my good friend Udom secured the photos for me through a CD so I can take it with me to Phnom Penh. Thank God, he has a CD burner.
That' was the end of the day but not the whole excursion.
When we woke up at four, there was no electricity still but we had to wash up and do the final tidying. At five, we left the house with enough goodbye and thanksgiving. I thanked my friend and his father for the experiences and for welcoming me to stay.
I was expecting we will take a boat to cross the river but my friend took an opposite turn. I asked why but I could not hear his explanation clearly. It was too early to annoy someone after all. I just stooped asking and went with the flow.
I noticed that the farther he drove, the slippery the way as well. We had difficulty going through that long, narrow and slippery way. We had to go or else he will miss his class at eight. There were times I had to go down and walked through the mud with my white shoes on (funny me). Nothing awful happened except sodden in the mud. Besides, he was a driving carefully and I trusted him for that. He is a good-defensive driver. I told him this in appreciation.
Anyway, that seemingly long drive in the mud had ended. We arrived at the port and waited for few minutes for a small boat to take us to the other side but not to Vietnam's border. We are in Cambodia still. That detour taking a long muddy drive I realized was for my own good. I actually needed a passport if we took the same route coming to this village. That is why when I asked him, he did not answer my question.
I learned a lesson myself.
It was also a sort of extended excursion seeing a lot of villages and some exotic things on the way. In few minuets time, we arrived at the final dry land. Luckily, we had to take advantage of the river before driving through the city again. We had to wash up and take off the mud from our shoes and our bodies. When we were clean enough, we went on with our driving. And before we knew it, we were already in the city. We are back to our old routines.
But it doesn't matter, I had an awesome experience way back there. I have seen new things that taught me a lot in the end. It renewed a certain commitment that only my self could feel and tell. Above all, I came to know my new friend deeper and deeper.
A million thanks for the flabbergasting experience which I thought only a weekend-getaway.